Towing
Options
There are three ways to bring your towed car with you and you need
to decide which option best suits your needs.
Transport
Units/Trailers
The first one is using a trailer that allows you to raise all four
wheels of your towed vehicle off of the ground. These are most commonly
used with vehicles like Corvettes, Lexus or classic cars. Transport
Units will vary in price from $1500 to $6000.
Tow
Dollies
The next option is a tow dolly. These get the front wheels of the
towed vehicle off the ground. There are some advantages to using
a dolly: By
putting a front wheel drive vehicle on a dolly you will not need
a lube pump or other device to make the vehicle towable. Tow dollies
are useful for vehicles you don’t want to or can’t tow
4 wheels down. Dollies are a great option if you intend to use it
with multiple vehicles or want to time-share it with friends. If
braking is a concern, be sure to check if the manufacturer has this
option available for immediate or possible future use.
Tow
Bars
The final & most popular choice is to tow all 4 wheels down
using a tow bar. The main reason for choosing a tow bar is convenience.
Tow bars give you the least amount of equipment to deal with to
tow your vehicle. The biggest disadvantage with dollies and trailers
is what to do with them when you get to the campground. Many campgrounds
do not have room to let you park a trailer or dolly on your site
along with your motorhome and towed vehicle. In most cases you would
have to unhook the trailer and park it somewhere away from your
campsite. With a tow bar you can unhook and the towing equipment
will fold up and stay with your motorhome or your car and not take
up any additional parking space. A tow bar is also lighter to carry
than a dolly or trailer and prices for a tow bar start out lower
than either a dolly or a trailer.
There
are three general types of tow bars available: (1) Self-Aligning
Motorhome Mounted (Blue Ox Aventa II or Aladdin), (2) Self-Aligning
Car Mounted (Blue Ox Acclaim) and (3) Rigid A-Frame (Blue Ox Ambassador).
When choosing a tow bar, dolly or trailer be sure to check on the
support that will be available as you travel across the country.
Some smaller companies do not have the dealer network or ability
to help you after the sale.
Rigid
A-Frame
Rigid tow bars, as their name implies, are a solid welded tow bar
without any adjustment to give you help hooking up. When you hookup
you must drive the towed vehicle to the exact spot which will allow
you to put the tow bar’s coupler on the ball of the tow vehicle.
It is often a two-person job, one driving while the other holds
the tow bar up and guides the driver. Rigid tow bars are the least
expensive and generally some of the lightest tow bars you can buy.
If you are in good health and have a driver you can trust that can
help each time you hook-up this may be an option for you. Also,
if you only tow once or twice a year this may be the type of tow
bar for you situation. Rigid tow bars generally have to be removed
from the car and stored when you are not using them.
Self
Aligning
Self-aligning tow bars provide you with the opportunity to hook
up by yourself. The self-aligning feature allows you to drive up
close to the motorhome and then let the tow bar adjust to the vehicle’s
position. Then the tow bar will extend out to its rigid tow position
as you pull ahead with the motorhome. Many users have called these
tow bars temper savers and marriage savers. The choice between car
mounted or motorhome mounted is a choice you will need to make.
Car
Mounted
Car mounted self-aligning tow bars were the first folding self-aligning
tow bars built. They were the industry standard for several years.
When you are not towing with these tow bars they will fold and stay
on the front of your car. Most models also have a quick release
system so they can be taken off quickly and easily. This type of
tow bar has served people who deliver new motor homes and trucks
or rental trucks very well. Hitting a pole or a wall in parking
lots or other people parking in front of your car are common ways
to damage the tow bar and possibly the bumper of your car. Being
with the car may leave the tow bar in an area where it can be easily
stolen off the car while you are gone. Also, leaving the extra weight
of the tow bar on the front of the car affects the front suspension.
Another disadvantage to this type of tow bar is cosmetics. Most
people do not want to strain with the weight of these tow bars,
so they will leave them on the car and this takes away from the
look of your car.
Motorhome
Mounted
Motorhome mounted tow bars are the latest & most popular innovation
in tow bars. The main advantage of a motorhome mounted tow bar is
the replacement of the ball coupler with a swivel joint. This allows
the tow bar to be used without a drop ball mount, which in many
cases hangs low enough to drag when a motorhome drives through a
dip or starts up a ramp. The storage of the tow bar on the motorhome
leaves the front of your car look much nicer when you are not towing.
The motorhome is less likely to be left in a place where theft is
a major problem and the tow bar can be locked into the receiver
hitch of the motorhome to deter theft. This type of tow bar is also
lighter and easier to handle than its car mounted counterpart.
Baseplates
When researching a towing system, do not overlook the baseplate.
The baseplate bolts to the frame and is custom designed for each
specific towed vehicle. Different baseplates will show significantly
more than others will and a few require cutting of the bumper for
installation. Some of the newer models have removable attachment
tabs, which allows you to remove all exposed parts from the front
of the vehicle. Baseplates come with all the necessary hardware
to install them and will bolt to a secure place on the towed vehicle.
On occasion you will need to drill holes in the frame to attach
the baseplate, but no special tools are needed.
Accessories
Available
Blue Ox provides all of the accessories that you may need or want
for towing. For safety purposes, federal law requires RV activated
taillights and safety cables. Also, most states and Canadian provinces
have laws on the books concerning braking for trailers. Brakes are
required on trailers with GVWR’s as low as 1,000 pounds in
some states. Enforcement of these laws has not been followed most
places in the United States. Interpretation of the law’s application
to cars in tow has probably been a big reason why these laws have
not been actively enforced. British Columbia province in Canada
has been actively enforcing this law, stopping people, writing tickets
and making them drive the tow car separately if they do not have
the proper equipment. The main thing to remember with auxiliary
braking systems is that they are just what they state - auxiliary
brakes. They are not meant to stop your motorhome any faster. They
are designed to assist in slowing down the towed vehicle and reduce
the stopping distance that was changed due to the addition of the
towed car.
Towability
Issues
Most front wheel drive manual transmission cars can be towed with
all four wheels on the ground with no modification. Most front wheel
drive automatic transmission vehicles will need a lube pump or similar
device in order to tow it four wheels down. Rear wheel drive automatics
will require a device to disconnect the driveshaft in order to tow
four down.
There
are some front wheel drive automatic transmission vehicles that
can be towed without modification. Here are some examples: All Honda
and Acura vehicles; All Saturn vehicles; 1995 and newer Chevrolet
Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire with 4T40E transmission; 1997 and newer
Chevrolet Malibu and Olds Cutlass with 4T40E transmission; 1999
and newer Pontiac Grand Am with 4T40E transmission. Also, some 4
wheel drive vehicles can be towed (both automatic and manual transmission).
Refer to your vehicle's owners manual for specific instructions
and limitations.
Towing
Safety Checklist
Inspect the tow bar, dolly or trailer for loose bolts and worn parts.
Tighten loose bolts and replace worn parts before hooking up. If
you have bolts that are consistently coming loose, use Loctite or
put on a double nut to keep them tight.
During
Hook Up:
1. Hook up on a flat smooth surface.
2. If you have a coupler style tow bar; check the fit of the coupler
on the ball. Adjust the coupler if necessary.
3. Hook up the tow bar.
4. Set up the towed vehicle’s steering and transmission to
tow.
5. Check your parking brake to ensure it is disengaged.
6. Latch the legs on a self-aligning tow bar.
7. Attach the safety cables. Cross the cables between the vehicles
and wrap the cables around the tow bar legs to keep them from dragging.
8. Attach the electrical cable.
9. Check the function of all lights on both vehicles.
10. Locate your spare key and lock the towed vehicle’s doors.
11. Drive with care and remember your vehicle will be about 25 feet
longer while towing.
Each
time you stop, check the tow bar, base plate and cables to make
sure they are still properly attached. Check the tires of the towed
vehicle to make sure they are not going flat. If you are using a
dolly or trailer, check the wheels to make sure they are not hot
to the touch. If the wheels are hot, it may indicate a brake or
bearing problem. Each day before you start check the lights to make
sure they are working properly. Between trips clean the towbar and
cables to keep them in good shape. Also, clean and lubricate the
tow bar as recommended by the manufacturer’s instructions.